Fashion has long been a medium through which we express ourselves, communicate our personalities, and challenge Comme Des Garcons the status quo. However, few fashion houses have consistently pushed boundaries the way Comme des Garçons has. Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, the brand has always embraced an avant-garde approach to fashion, making a strong statement about beauty, identity, and society’s expectations. Through its innovative and often controversial designs, Comme des Garçons challenges conventional beauty standards, redefining how we perceive fashion, the human body, and what is considered beautiful.
The Origins of Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo's vision for Comme des Garçons was nothing short of revolutionary. In a world where fashion typically adhered to traditional ideals of beauty—sleek silhouettes, symmetry, and smooth finishes—Kawakubo introduced a radical approach. Her designs have been described as deconstructive, challenging the very notion of what clothing should be. Instead of focusing on flattering the body, Comme des Garçons often emphasizes shape, texture, and structure in ways that defy typical fashion expectations.
Kawakubo’s refusal to adhere to norms led to some of her early collections being criticized. The designs were so unconventional that critics found them hard to digest. Yet, over time, the fashion world began to recognize the importance of Kawakubo’s perspective. Comme des Garçons made a name for itself as a brand that was not afraid to experiment, push boundaries, and challenge preconceived notions of beauty.
Breaking the Mold of Conventional Beauty
One of the most striking features of Comme des Garçons is its rejection of the traditional, idealized vision of beauty. The brand has consistently defied the norms by showcasing designs that often distort, exaggerate, or subvert the human form. For example, rather than creating garments that emphasize a particular body type or shape, Comme des Garçons designs are often characterized by asymmetric cuts, exaggerated silhouettes, and unexpected textures.
This approach contrasts sharply with the mainstream fashion industry, where idealized images of slenderness, flawless skin, and perfect proportions are often upheld. Models who have traditionally embodied beauty in fashion—tall, thin, and symmetrical—are often absent in the campaigns and runway shows for Comme des Garçons. Instead, the brand regularly features models of diverse body types, races, and appearances, challenging the notion that beauty can be reduced to a single, narrow standard.
In collections like “Homme Plus” (1984), Rei Kawakubo showcased oversized garments that seemed to swallow the body, completely distorting the traditional idea of a fitted suit. These garments, which appeared almost as if they were made for a different kind of body, questioned whether the body itself should be the focus of fashion, or if the garment should be the statement. In doing so, Comme des Garçons moved beyond clothing as a tool for enhancing the body and instead used fashion as a medium to question what beauty truly means.
Embracing Imperfection and the “Ugly”
Another way in which Comme des Garçons challenges beauty standards is through its embrace of imperfection and the “ugly.” In traditional fashion, beauty is often associated with perfection, with clean lines, flawless finishes, and a polished appearance. However, Comme des Garçons repeatedly challenges this by presenting collections that incorporate raw, unfinished, and even “imperfect” elements.
Take, for instance, some of their most iconic collections such as the 1997 “Dressed to Kill” line, where Kawakubo experimented with ragged edges, torn fabrics, and exposed seams. These elements of imperfection were not only unconventional but were intentionally used to defy the beauty standard that prized smooth, flawless garments. Kawakubo’s designs forced the fashion world to confront the notion that beauty might not be about perfection, but rather about authenticity and expression.
Kawakubo also played with the concept of “ugly” in fashion, especially in the 1990s when she introduced clothing with elements that were intentionally “unfashionable.” In collections like the 1997 “Spring/Summer” line, she presented designs with distorted shapes and exaggerated features, making the clothes look chaotic and odd. Yet, this embrace of the “ugly” led to a redefinition of beauty, one that was more inclusive and open-minded. The very concept of beauty began to shift, moving away from rigid ideals toward a broader and more diverse understanding.
Deconstructing Gender Norms
Comme des Garçons' impact extends beyond the aesthetic realm into the gendered dimensions of fashion. By challenging traditional ideas about what is "masculine" and "feminine," Kawakubo's designs have played a significant role in deconstructing gender norms in fashion. Comme des Garçons frequently blurs the lines between male and female clothing, allowing individuals to wear what feels right for them rather than adhering to society's prescribed gender roles.
In collections like the “Comme des Garçons Homme Plus” and the “Comme des Garçons Women’s” lines, there is often a fluidity between the designs meant for men and those meant for women. This gender-neutral approach opens up possibilities for self-expression, emphasizing individuality over societal expectations. Kawakubo's gender-defying designs, with their rejection of fitted, body-contouring garments, are a direct challenge to the highly gendered nature of beauty in fashion.
This radical move toward androgyny has had a lasting impact on how fashion is consumed today. Many contemporary designers and brands have followed in Comme des Garçons' footsteps by producing collections that are not bound by traditional notions of gender, further challenging the binary ways in which beauty and fashion are often perceived.
Redefining Fashion as Art
Ultimately, Comme des Garçons’ challenge to beauty standards can be seen in how the brand approaches fashion not just as clothing but as art. Rei Kawakubo’s designs often evoke emotions, spark conversations, and force viewers to question their ideas of beauty. By treating fashion as a form of artistic expression, she has proven that beauty is not always about harmony and uniformity; it can be about tension, contradiction, and individuality.
In this sense, Comme des Garçons has carved out a space in the fashion industry where beauty is subjective, complex, and ever-changing. The brand’s willingness to challenge conventional standards has contributed to a broader conversation about diversity, individuality, and the power of fashion to provoke thought and inspire change.
Conclusion
Through its bold designs and commitment to questioning beauty norms, Comme des Garçons has created a lasting impact on the fashion industry. By rejecting the traditional ideals of beauty and embracing imperfection, androgyny, and individuality, the brand has not only changed the way we view fashion but has also played a crucial role in challenging societal expectations of beauty. Comme des Garçons continues to inspire both designers and consumers alike, encouraging a more inclusive and diverse understanding of what beauty can be. In commes des garcons doing so, it proves that fashion is not just about aesthetics—it’s about identity, expression, and the constant reimagining of the world around us.